Summit Night

11.00 pm 23rd October 2014

This was it then. No more training, nor more acclimatisation, all that was left was to get to the summit. Just one more day and we would reach our goal. Except that we had been promised the toughest days trekking we would ever experience and the majority of the ascent would be at night, in pitch darkness.

We had arrived at Kibo Camp at 4700m at around 1.00 pm on 23rd October in blazing sunshine. We were to be given lunch immediately and then be expected to rest for 2-3 hours.

Within 20 minutes of arriving at camp it started snowing, and it was very, very cold. So cold that the flusher on the chemical toilet froze and couldn't be used. Over lunch we could all sense the nerves starting to kick in but we didn't talk about it. Daniel kept stressing how important it was to conserve energy, no wandering about camp, get to our tents and sleep if we could. We went to our tents, ice forming on the inside covers due to the drop in temperatures, and got whatever rest we could.  As I tried to get some rest my mind kept thinking I didn't fancy trying to ascend in the dark if the trail was icy and slippy. So far we had been lucky with the weather and fingers and toes were firmly crossed that the luck would hold.

We were called to the mess tent at about 5.00 pm for our 'last supper'. As usual the food was exceptional, unusually the mood around the dinner table was quiet. We had been getting along really well and meal times always involved tall tales and laughter. This time we marvelled at how the chefs were still managing to rustle up amazing food but otherwise chit chat was minimal. Daniel gave us our briefing, we would be woken at 11.00 pm and would be trekking up the final ascent by midnight. The aim being to get to Gilman's Point on the edge of the crater by sunrise. He ran through the kit and clothing we should wear and take with us, the importance of stopping our water from freezing. He stressed now more than ever, any signs of a problem should be communicated to a guide or the doc immediately. In the event of a problem an assessment would be made of our ability to carry on. However, he also stated that there could come a point where we have to as it is safer to carry on up rather than come down. The Doc ran through his advice on altitude sickness one more time. We lapped it up in almost complete silence, exchanging nervous glances across the table.

As I settled back into my tent I heard one of the group say to their tent mate, 'everyone was worried', and knew that it wasn't only me. I knew anyway, but it was a sort of comfort to hear someone else say it, even if not said directly to me.

I managed to get some sleep in between the usual dashes to the loo from taking the Diamox. During these dashes I took the opportunity to keep adding extra layers so that I would be ready to go as quickly as possible. Whilst it remained bitterley cold I was relieved to see that the snow had stopped and the sky was clear and full of stars.

At 11.00 pm Felix started his rounds of the camp making the sound of a cockerel very loudly whilst rattling the tent covers to get us up. I could hear everyone laughing. Felix was doing what he does best, relieving the tension in the camp. I made my way to the mess tent for tea and biscuits, with 2 base layers, a fleece jacket and a down jacket on top. On my legs I was wearing long johns, a pair of trekking pants and windproof over trousers. Thermal liner socks under a pair of trekking socks. Thermal liner gloves inside ski gloves, a woolly hat and a fleece neck buff that could also be used like a balaclava if need be. I was still cold, but figured that I would be warm enough once we started climbing and I still had a couple of extra layers in my day sack if it wasn't enough.

In the mess tent 5 of the support staff were sleeping head to toe at at one end making our small tents seem like luxury. We took on warm drinks and forced in some biscuits and popcorn. Farouk came in wearing a comedy balaclava that made us laugh to release more tension.

As prepared as we were going to be we set off. Val was at the head of the chain, just behind the lead guide. Val had had a bit of a problem earlier in the week with her daypack and so  it was decided to play safe and allow the lead guide to carry her pack, with her following so she could take a drink whenever she needed. Followed in single file by the rest of us, Roz in front of me and Mark behind.

We set off in the dark, at about 12.15 a.m. on 24th October 2014, and all we could see was the few feet in front of us illuminated only by our head torches. Ahead of us, total blackness with no idea how far, or how high the edge of the crater was, only our own sense of it from arriving at camp the previous day. We could see ahead in the distance 2 other small groups, illuminated only by their head torches, but we had no idea how long before us they had set off so could not make any judgement on distance. Apart from maybe the first half hour or so the trail we followed was not a path. It merely appeared to be the flattest parts of the mountainside the guide could take us on. Some parts were not flat but at an angle and we needed our trekking poles to keep balanced across them. All we could do was focus on the feet of the person in front to follow their steps trusting that everyone in the chain was taking the same steps as the lead guide. 

Daniel and the other guides would call out to us to ask how we were feeling and we would all shout back that we were feeling good. Occasionally they would fan out across the the length of the group, when the terrain allowed it, to take a look at our faces and assess how they thought we were doing rather than how we we said we were. Where we reached a rare flat section we would take a short rest, take on fluid and some snacks and give the Doc a chance to do a quick round up of us all. The problem we had was that in the darkness we had no way of telling how long we had been walking, how far we had to go, how far we we had come and the climb was steep, very steep and it was relentless. The stars in the night sky were an awesome sight when we had the confidence to look up, but even so it was impossible to see where the mountain ended and the sky began. We were all drawing on our own mental training to keep positive and keep going. After a couple of hours (I am guessing) Mark remarked to me that his calf's were aching because of the angle we were walking at, I wasn't feeling too bad at this stage, whatever stage that was.

As we were climbing it was a toss up whether it was better to know where we were on the mountain or not. On the one hand, we couldn't assess progress or otherwise, on the other hand on the few occasions I made the mistake of looking left or right the mountain appeared to fall away very steeply and disappear quite quickly, so maybe it was better not to know. Speaking to the others afterwards we all felt differently about it.

Then after who knows how long of the relentless ascending and darkness, it all started to become apparent that we were starting to experience difficulties. So far, from my point of view, I was breathing heavily but it was not any worse than some of the trickier training climbs I had done through the summer, my legs were not hurting anymore than I had expected and I felt reasonably fresh for the early hours of the morning. We had all regularly been asking the others if they were okay, checking in with each other as we had become accustomed to doing all week. The difference this time was that there was no conversation to take our minds off the trek.

Then when Daniel called out if we were okay it was noticeable that not everyone answered, and this was unusual. It was impossible from my single point in the chain to know who had and who hadn't answered but not everyone did. The guides then changed tack to regularly call out words of encouragement, telling us how well we were doing and how strong we were looking. 

Then we stopped, Val at the head of the chain was struggling to catch her breath, she may even have been sick, I could not tell. The guides and the Doc rushed over to her. I was hunched over my poles taking a rest not being fully able to see or hear what was happening ahead, but after a few minutes she was up and walking again and we all followed behind. 

In my head, all the positive images I had stored, the supportive messages I had received were all being brought to the front of my mind. I was conflicted between the desire to succeed for myself but also to know that one of our number was still going to carry on, one having difficulty started to sow the first seed of doubt. I was able to push the doubts to one side, convincing myself, without any facts to go on that we had been walking so long we must be well over half way to the crater and when we got there it would be easier.

Before long, Roz passed Alison in the chain, and as I moved past Alison told me she needed a rest, I mumbled a few words of encouragement as I filed past. Then when we next stopped Alison no longer had her day sack, one of the guides having taken it from her. Alison told me she was feeling much better and would take her pack back but the guides wouldn't let her. Once they had decided to take the pack that was it, it would increase your chances of getting to the top.

After several hours, one of the group asked how high we were. We were told 5100m. So after walking what seemed to be all night we hadn't even got close to half way to Gilman's Point. Sometime after that I noticed Roz had also lost her pack to one of the guides but I wasn't aware when that happened or why. I carried on drawing on the inspirational messages of support I had received and pictured my beautiful muse, using every bit of mental strength I could muster to stay focused on the goal. The Doc asked me how I was doing and remember telling him I was surprising myself, I had already achieved more than I thought I was capable of and was feeling really strong. In fact by this time we were all at a much higher altitude than any of our little group had reached before, so whatever happened we had every right to be proud. 

Then like a thunderbolt, out of the blue I stopped. Without warning every ounce of energy just sapped from my legs and my head said no more, I couldn't go on. I am guessing that we were at about 5200-5300m but have no way of knowing that for sure. I saw a nice chair height rock and I sat on it, feeling utterly desolate and devastated. I could see nothing, my mind a total blank knowing the dream was over and not caring whether they left me there or took me back to camp. I sat there for what seemed like half an hour but in reality was probably about 20 seconds. Daniel came over and looked me in they eye, Farouk sat next to me and very quietly said "let me take your pack" and very gently unclipped the straps and removed it from my shoulders. As I sat there, I was aware that both Mark and Paul spoke encouraging words to me, the words didn't register, but the support did. They grabbed my shoulder on the way past and gave me reassurance.

Farouk, took my pack and passed me the tube to my water reservoir  and said "take a sip and stand up". As I pushed myself to my feet I heard Daniel tell me I was strong and the Doc came over to take a look and just said 'You will feel like a new man without the pack". I got to my feet pushed my poles into the ground and took my first steps again. I wouldn't say I felt like a new man but I was going again, saying to myself "if I can just get to Gilman's point..."

It was at this point that I truly valued the work and the effort of the guides. All of us went through a similar point but the guides knew by looking at us that although we didn't think we had it in us we did. They would not push us to do anything that would endanger our health or theirs, but their experience told them how to get us to believe again that we could do it. From this point on they earned far more than our respect and admiration, from this point on they earned more than we could ever repay them and I am not talking money. They help you find that extra something in yourself that you didn't know you had. From here on in every time I stopped Farouk was by my side, checking I was okay making me take on water. If we had a rest stop he helped me on and off with my gloves, zipped my camera back into my pocket, picked up my poles. Every little extra ounce of energy he could save for me he did, constantly whispering words of encouragement.

Before we set off on this adventure, Val had shared a quotation with us. "Your biggest challenge isn't someone else. It's the ache in your lungs and the burning in your legs and the voice inside you that yells "CAN'T", but you don't listen. You just push harder. And then you hear the voice whisper "can". And you discover that the person you were is no match for the one you really are". It was true.

For the next 30 minutes or so I struggled on taking breathers wherever I could. The Doc came over for a chat and asked me how I was doing, by this time I had come to the conclusion that stopping was just in my head and the relentless darkness had cracked me, physically I didn't feel too bad. The Doc, who had done this before told me the sun would be up soon and he was right. A few minutes later the first flickers of light started to appear and gradually the sun was rising. Then about 100m below Gilman's Point we saw this

I just don't have words to describe the wave of positive emotions this evoked, I knew it was going to be hard but this mountain was no longer in charge of my destiny I was. I had a lump in my throat and and my eyes were moist, but not from the cold. As the sun came up it was easier for us to work as a group again, we could see what we were up against, we could see how each of us was doing and the communal spirit was alive and well. We could taste it, we could smell it, we could almost grasp it and we weren't going to let it go. Every stop we offered each other words of encouragement, shook hands, grabbed shoulders for reassurance, anything to let each other know we were in it together. We shared around our  snacks and sweets, drinks in some cases where the effort to avoid drinks freezing had failed. We had come this far together and we were going to make the dream reality together.

Then as the sun started to rise we reached Gilman's Point at 5685m, the hardest part was over. We still had 2 more peaks, 2 hours walking and 210m to ascend yet but at this point I knew I would make it even if it took me the rest of the day and I finished on my hands and knees. 

We made our way to Stella Point at 5756m. From there the sign at Uhuru Peak was just about visible in the distance. The trek to Uhuru Peak involved some ascending and descending, a few little icy bits but nothing too difficult. And then...

I crossed over a crest and there it was, Uhuru Peak maybe 100 metres away and no more than maybe 10m higher than were I was. As I walked towards it I saw Roz had already made it, I remember Alison being there too but her recollection was that she was just a couple of feet behind. I moved closer to the summit and at about 50 feet away I just went completely nuts. I ripped my trekking poles from my wrists and threw them like javelins as far as I could, I punched the air with both fists and started running the last few feet. Roz moved towards me, arms outstretched and we grabbed each other in a massive bear hug and sobbed onto each others shoulders. Every bit of effort, every hope, every dream, all the support, every last bit of emotion we had left came pouring out and it was beautiful in a way that words on a page only hint at. As we pulled apart, in a half laugh half cry Roz looked at me and said 'It's only a bloody mountain'. 

I turned and there was Alison, also looking a little moist of eye and we hugged each other shouting who knows what at each other. Then I ripped off my down jacket, ripped off my fleece jacket got down on my hands and knees and kissed the ground at the highest point. We made it and nothing could take it away from us now. As I got up and turned round Val was just arriving, also with tears streaming down her face, I hugged her briefly as I didn't want to stop her getting those last few feet. Somewhere in the midst of all this Mark, Paul and Michelle had also made it. I saw Mark, who for more reasons than the rest of us put together just had to get to the top, and he was a little red in the eye and he grabbed me by the shoulders and pulled me in, congratulating each other, slapping each other on the back. Paul looked overwhelmed as we congratulated each other and then Michelle, who had seemed to sail up without effort ( I am sure that wasn't really the case) grabbed me round the neck and gave me a big kiss. 

I just stood there not knowing what to do when Farouk came over the rise with his arms raised. I walked over to him to give him a hug and say thanks and as I did he pulled my head into his shoulder and said quietly into my ear  "I knew you were going to do it'. Here I am with Farouk, my hero, my legend, my brother who brought the dream back to life when I thought all was lost.

All that was left was to take our photo's. We all have our individual photo's at the summit, and various group photo's. However, it is only fitting that another group arriving after us were able to take a photo of the complete group including the guides and Doc.

When Roz said to me "It's only a bloody mountain" she was right, Kilimanjaro is a mountain, a big piece of the earth that is there to be climbed. However, it is the journey that makes it special. I started writing this blog as a bit of a self mocking tale of how an overweight lazy waster was going to try and get fit. It has ended with something that lives within me, that is special and is shared with the most wonderful group of people. The 8 days on the mountain have been the most amazing, life affirming positive experience of my life. Far greater than I could have anticipated and infinitely more than I expected or could have wished for. 

Getting fit enough to do this in the first place was down to me. Getting to the top of Kilimanjaro would not have been possible without every single person on the photo above, and all the other support staff back at the camps. I am proud and honoured to have taken this journey with them. Many others have tried and succeeded, tried and failed and will try in the future and each will have their story and it will be great. But this started as my story and ended as our story and I wouldn't change any of it. 

In the weeks leading up to this we shared stories, information and so on as a group of strangers talking online. We were sent a copy of a blog from someone who had struggled to the top and it was a pretty miserable story from beginning to end. At the end of that story the writer claimed that the struggle wasn't worth it. Let me tell you it is, I gave up and felt utterly devastated and went through mental agonies to complete the journey, it was worth it. Others had some physical struggles, emotional struggles, they will all say it was worth it, believe me it is. If you ever feel like giving it a go yourself you won't regret it.

So all that is left for me to say is:- 

• Thank you Lisa Quinn for putting me up to this in the first place;
• Thank you to everyone who has sponsored me, supported me, given words of encouragement; particularly Patsy and Clare my charity coordinators and Joanna B who was the first person to give me a positive message of support and set me on the track.
• Thank you Daniel, Ben and Lassara, our guides
• Thank you Farouk, my guide
• Thank you Felix, Tumsif and all the support staff on the camps
• Thank you everyone at Charity Challenge and the Tanzanian Travel Company
• Thank you Doc, Dr Doug Watts an endless source of good advice and funny stories and the most laid-back guy I have ever come across.

Most of all thank you Mark Beale, Roz Lomas, Val McLaren-Oliver, Paul Moran, Alison Postlethwaite and Michelle Taylor my amazing fellow trekkers, SClub7. We did it, and we did it together! Without you The dream would not have been possible  You will always be in my heart wherever I go, whatever I do.

Finally, thank you to my beautiful inspirational muse to whom I dedicate this achievement. 

Now, what next?

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For more information about the Princes Trust visit the website at www.princes-trust.org.uk

Mark

To High Altitudes and Back Again

Day 4 - 20th October 2014

Our first early morning wake up at 6.30 a.m. for a cup of bed tea. That just means that Felix comes round and asks you what you want and brings it to your tent. It is pretty chilly at that time of the morning so anything hot you're glad of. The support staff bring a thimble full of hot water to wash in and take your water bottles to fill up with drinking water. The water is treated for us, so as long as we don't drink it right away we should avoid any tummy troubles.

After an 'extensive' wash we are called for breakfast where it is established that I slept through the worst of the thunder and lightning and the Doc unsurprisingly had a good sleep. Breakfast consisted of porridge, that I avoided, and sausage and egg that I didn't. Toast, jam, peanut butter and honey all available. Roz was particularly keen on the the peanut butter. As with the previous evening meal we were impressed with the quality of the food.

Before setting off a few of us, but not me, did a few stretching and limbering up exercises. Mark lit up up a cigarette having been assured by the Doc it wasn't a good time to give up.

So off we set for a full days trek up to approx. 3700m. This time the vegetation thinned out, and some of the terrain was tricky and uneven underfoot. We also had to trek through the main level of cloud, it was misty and cold at times but otherwise dry. Apart from the last section before camp when we had to hop across raised stumps of grass to avoid sinking into mud. We crossed a small bridge into camp. I say a small bridge it was actually a single plank of wood.

Before we had set off Val had confessed that if there were any mishaps then she was the most likely source. She didn't disappoint as she somehow managed to get a foot wedged between two rocks. While I held one hand to keep her steady a couple of the group and a couple of guides set about freeing her foot while trying not to laugh. Paul experienced a bit of a headache and a bit of nausea during the day but nothing too serious; and it may not have been anything to do with moving to higher altitudes. He was the only one who hadn't taken any Diamox at this point and the rest of us felt fine.

Other than those minor drama's none of us considered the trekking too taxing, although we were going pole pole and taking plenty of sippy sippy as instructed.

Back at camp for a bit of washy washy and another great evening meal, the soups in particular were proving popular to the extent that it became the topic of conversation the nearer we got to camp. Daniel gave us a briefing for the next day, told us to anticipate it getting colder and the Doc warned us about complacency over sunscreen. Although we were getting higher and the temperatures dropping there was actually less UV filtering on the sun so SPF was vital.

The importance of rest was stressed and so after a couple of inappropriate dinner table stories we were off to bed by 8.30 p.m.

Days 5-7  21st-23rd October 2014.

I was awake before Felix came round for the early morning wake up calls. Nipping out to use the portaloo before everyone else got up the mists had cleared overnight and the views at 6.00 a.m. were astonishing. As usual Alison was stood outside her tent shivering with cold wrapped up in fleece and woolly hat. Mawenzi and Kibo Peaks rose up magnificently either side of the camp. This is what we signed up for, I hadn't seen anything so awe inspiring before. Kilimanjaro consists of three volcanoes, Mawenzi, Shira and Kibo with Kibo the highest, most famous and most photographed. We would be heading to Mawenzi today for 2 nights camping and acclimatisation before reaching Kibo. Although there wasn't a cloud in the sky it was bitterly cold. Myself and Alison were huddled round a cup of tea trying to get warm, every little helps. When the sun came up over the horizon it was suddenly very hot. It went from freezing to too hot in about ten minutes. Below Mawenzi is on the left and Kibo on the right. 

For breakfast we were given omelette and pancakes. I made the mistake of putting jam on my omelette rather than my pancake. I still ate it but it isn't recommended. Setting off on the trek the terrain was becoming increasingly rocky the higher we got. We would be camping at about 4300m but climbing to between 4400-4500m during the day. The first couple of days had firmly established us as a group that stayed together, at no time did the group splinter into smaller sections walking at different speeds. This wasn't anything we talked about specifically but from getting to know each other we all had the same goal and were determined to achieve it but not at the expense of anyone else in the group. We became increasingly aware that the guides were positioning themselves at various times of the day to observe us for any signs of altitude sickness or other problems. At the same time we were all asking after each other checking we were all okay, would slow down or stop as soon as someone else did. A bond was forming and it was happening naturally. Every time we stopped the Doc would also come round and have a quick check with everyone. A although we had started to view the Doc as one of the group rather than the support staff it was still a real confidence boost to have that support. 

Lunch on Day 5 consisted of a delicious cucumber soup and BBQ chicken and chips for the carnivores amongst us. I can't spell the noises we made when that was brought into the mess tent but they definitely merit an 18 rating. In the afternoon we went closer to Mawenzi where Paul, having overcome his minor headache and nausea, kept astonishing us with his ability to get a clear mobile phone signal absolutely anywhere. Here he is on the left phoning home while the rest of us struggle to get any sort of signal.

It was here at about 4500m that we encountered the first little bits of snow.

At the evening meal Daniel told us how impressed he was with us as a group, we listened to advice, we were eating and drinking well and we were talking to each other. He said by this point usually someone in the group would be experiencing altitude sickness, loss of appetite or even drop out. He reminded us that while we were all feeling good we should eat as much as we can as the body would store the energy and it would help if we lost appetite later on nearer the summit. We didn't need any encouragement to eat well the food was exceptional. We couldn't work out how they could keep drumming up such great meals the further we got from civilisation but we were glad they did.

By this time the nights were getting very cold, ice on the tents - even on the inside of the outer covers. My investment in a good quality sleeping bag was paying dividends as so far I hadn't had to put in the liner or wear extra layers, the bag was warm enough as it was. Others were feeling the cold more than I was but I still have an extra couple of natural insulating layers.

We had the luxury of a lie in until 7.30 a.m the next morning as we would be going on a short 2-3 hour acclimatisation walk in the morning. The night sky was getting even more spectacular with the Milky Way now also clearly visible. I confessed to Val and Roz that on the trek up to Mawenzi I had started to feel a bit emotional thinking how far I had come in such a short space of time and with the fantastic support I had been getting it all suddenly seemed very real. The awe inspiring scenery didn't help either. I had said to a few people before I left that if I made it to the summit I would blub like a baby and now it was looking more likely to come true, but there was still a long way to go.

With having the extra hour in bed I took the opportunity the next morning to have a full spa cleanse. Well a 'dry shower' and a shave. Shaving in the freezing cold with a tiny bowl of slightly warm water is not the most enjoyable experience but at least in my head I felt a lot cleaner. The washy washy was easier for the men as we could brave the outside temperatures and get it over with outside our tents. Modesty dictated the ladies had to stay inside, kudos to them for managing it although I am sure they would tell you it wasn't easy.

Breakfast saw a bunch of adults reacting like over excited kids when eggy bread was brought in for us to fill up on.

Daniel took us on a trek to terrain that would be similar to summit night and taught us about descending on the scree, more about that later. After lunch we had the afternoon free. Daniel advised us to rest as much as possible but we went off on our own for a bit of a walk. We met Ben taking a rest on the way and he offered to take us to show us the start of the next days trek. Here we are taking a breather. At the back from left to right are Roz, Doc and Mark. At the front from left to right are me, Val, Alison, Michelle and Paul.

At the evening meal Daniel warned us the next day would be long and tiring as we would be making our way to base camp at Kibo before the final ascent. However, he also said he was confident we would all get to the summit. A few more inappropriate dinner table stories and off to bed. The food over the whole trip was amazing, noodles, spaghetti, rice, pasta, chips, potatoes, spicy sauces, bolognese, fried fish, BBQ chicken, Chocolate cake, lemon cake, fresh fruit it just keep coming: and then there was the soups every lunchtime and evening. Oh the soups, zucchini, carrot, cucumber, mushroom, sweet potato, they just kept producing bowl after bowl of the stuff and we couldn't get enough. Only Mark struggled with some of the food but when that happened he was brought a plate of chips and/or smothered everything in chilli sauce. He ate as much as the rest of us so fair play to him. The first time he was brought chips resulted in a lot of envy from the rest of us but we needn't have worried we would get some in the end. Mark's trip into food adventure culminated in him having a piece of carrot cake, something he wouldn't normally eat. He was so proud of himself he had to have it captured on camera so he could prove it to his partner.

Day 7 was an early start as we had to get to Kibo Hut as early as possible so we could get as much rest in as possible before attempting the summit climb. This consisted of several hours trekking across sparse alpine desert where there was little vegetation. Even the rocks were getting smaller so finding a suitable place to have a private pee was difficult.

This is where the mental part of the challenge started to creep in. The terrain was quite easy under foot and over the course of the day we would only be climbing from 4300m to 4700m. The problem was that we could see the camp very early on but it didn't seem to get any closer. It was dry, dusty and the sun was relentless. Although it was quite chilly we had to keep ourselves protected from the sun with headgear and SPF.

Here is the view to Kibo Hut camp from about 3 hours walking distance. In the foreground you can see a couple of white pieces of debris from a plane crash. Daniel told us everyone survived the crash but because it took so long for rescuers to get there they all perished. The cloud coming in from the right was bringing snow but we managed to get to camp before it started. From the desert to the top of the crater is approx 1100m and we would be scaling about 900m of that in the dark the next night. You can see the grey scar in the middle, that is the route up. Nerves were kicking in.

 Our 4 main guides protecting us at the rear.

As we reached the camp we spotted the young Irish couple we had met at the start of the trek making their way down on another path way from us. We managed to get a signal from them that they had made it to the top and that gave us all a boost. 

We reached camp and had lunch right away. We had to get a few hours rest before an early evening meal. As much rest as possible was needed as it was the summit next and we would be woken at 11.00 pm.

The Descent

Where is the story of the attempt on the summit? It seems appropriate that after all this time this story should end there. However, something that isn't referred to much when you read about people who have tried this is what is it like to come down from the crater? Let me tell you it is really hard and incredibly tiring.

In attempting the summit you have to leave Kibo Hut at 4700m, climb to the edge of the volcanic crater at Gilman's Point 5685m, then move on to Stella Point at 5756m and if you still have any energy left make your way to the highest point at Uhuru Peak at 5895m. If you make it as far as Gilman's point you still have to come down again and it is steep, it is on deep soft scree. It's hard to keep your footing. In addition you have slowly acclimatised to higher altitudes and your breathing has regulated itself for them. You are suddenly descending very quickly but your head and lungs are still higher up. As we made our way down porters from camp came rushing up to help us and at times more or less dragged us down back to camp. Personally, I could hardly stand by the time I reached camp. As I arrived every member of the camp came out to greet me, shake my hand, fist pumps give me a bear hug. Felix brought me a chair to sit on and another guy brushed all the dust off that he could. One by one the others reached camp to the same greeting. 

As I was waiting I was completely confused as to who was where and doing what. I remember someone telling me that Roz had developed a migraine on the way down. At first the Doc thought it may be the altitude but unfortunately not. I am lucky that is not something I suffer from but those people I know who do I get a sense of how awful it is. I felt for her as it was going to be difficult anyway. The look of total anguish on her face when she arrived at camp was heart breaking, we could only hope she would recover quickly to allow her to fully appreciate her achievement.

The further problem was that after a short rest we had another 3-4 hour trek to the next camp back at 3700m. We had already been on the go for 12 hours by this point. The Doc talked through with Roz what she would normally try when she got a migraine and suggested a bit of a concoction of his own that he found worked.

We had to have some rest before lunch and the afternoon trek. I only made it half way into my tent before falling asleep half in and half out and still with my boots on. At lunch I had no appetite as I was so exhausted and barely managed to eat anything.

Due to the need to move quickly to the next camp, the porters hurriedly helped us pack our kits and we were on our way to Horombo. A pretty nondescript trek for 4 hours. I started sneezing and coughing, something that would last for several days. The Doc explained it was not unusual as by this time the body was naturally breathing more deeply and so as we descended to lower altitudes we would breathe in more dust and other crap from the air. On the way down Roz was left trailing at the back. After a couple of hours the Doc caught us up and told us she was feeling a bit better but would need a good sleep at the next camp. Ben stayed with her on the way down. About half an hour away from camp we had stopped for a bit of a breather when Roz caught us up looking much happier, the Doc's special brew was working. She immediately asked me how I was. There in a nutshell is a glimpse of what the group had become, despite the fact that she had struggled with her own problem she still wanted to know how we where. That was how the group was, we had become a single unit and we all to had to know every part of the group was okay no matter what.

By the time we got to camp I had my appetite back. Most of us, with the possible exception of Michelle were completely knackered by this point. Mark said his legs were a bit sore, my knees definitely were. Roz was in need of a good nights sleep more than any of us. We tried to comprehend what we had done over dinner but we couldn't. We had gone from a group who had chatted away easily every night to not being able to explain what had happened. However, we would look at each other and we all knew what each of us had had to put in and we didn't need words we could see it in each others faces and we just knew and it felt good. We were tired, we were proud and we were emotional. We had come so far and we had done it together, for our charities, for our supporters, for ourselves but most of all for each other. The group had become the most important thing, a bond had been made. We hadn't seen it coming but it did, it was surreal, but it was good.

After a good nights sleep we were all refreshed in the morning. After breakfast all the support staff sang a song of celebration for us. Go to my Facebook page to see a video of it. We left some excess kit for the porters and staff who struggle up the mountain for us. We each sought out those who had helped us individually to give them a little extra and then we headed off down the mountain. With the extra oxygen we were getting faster and faster until eventually by mid afternoon we arrived at the exit gate. We signed in at the office to say we were back and had a beer. It tasted good, very good.

All that was left was to get to the overnight hotel with the luxury of a proper bed, hot running water and a flushing toilet. Oh how we missed you!

After showering and putting on clean clothes. We assembled for dinner. Sam from the Tanzanian Travel Company, Daniel's boss, came to tell us how pleased he was with the daily reports he was getting from Daniel. He said that usually there is someone, sometimes a few, in each group who think they know better than the guides and usually they don't make it to the top so the way we had worked together with the support staff was a significant factor in why we had succeeded. He talked about how doing what we had helped employ people in Tanzania and it was very important for them. I looked across the table and was pleased to see it wasn't just me who had a bit of dust in my eye. 

After Dinner we were presented with certificates confirming we had done it and we had our photograph taken with Daniel and Sam. We retired to the bar for some well earned drinks. Val and Roz were off on safari the next day, the rest of us heading home. Before we knew it it was over. 9 days previously we had met as virtual strangers and we had formed a bond, a strong one. As fast as it was created it was now going to break apart as we went our separate ways and it was hard. As we said goodbye to Roz and Val that bit of dust got in my eye again. 

But this isn't the end of the story. I need to describe the attempt on the summit, it is no longer my journey but our journey and I need to do it justice, not just for me but for my fellow trekkers. I have tried wherever possible to keep this blog light hearted but summit night is different - I hope I get it right.

Watch this space.

If you have been 'enjoying' reading this blog please consider sponsoring me by visiting  Marks Just Giving Page 

or TEXT code MPTC50 £amount to 70070 e.g. MPTC £5

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Mark

Kilimanjaro 2

Day 1 & 2 - 17/18th October 2014

Today is the start of the big adventure. Knowing we had a long journey ahead of us just to get to the pre-trek hotel I thought I would turn my alarm off so as to get a couple of extra hours sleep. No such luck, like a kid at Christmas I was awake at 4 a.m. full of nervous anticipation.

Having packed everything the night before I made my way to Lime Street Station where I met Paul the first new face. We had arranged to meet Alison and Michelle at Euston Station around 2 p.m. and make our way to Heathrow together. I already felt that I knew Alison quite well having chatted online quite extensively over the previous few weeks. Michelle hardly at all as she had only really made contact a couple of weeks before. On meeting at Euston her first question to Paul and myself was to ask if we though this trek was going to be tough. Michelle seemed to be ill-informed and unprepared and this was to be the start of a theme though not a hindrance to her progress through the trek.

Struggling across London with our main kitbag's and rucksacks we got the train to Heathrow and promptly lodged ourselves at the bar, got a drink in and waited for the rest of the party. Mark was first to arrive followed by Roz and then Val. Having made contact online it was easy to strike up conversation. We started telling each other a little bit about ourselves and spookily as I was telling the others a little bit about myself Janet rang me to wish me luck. Even more spookily she was at Heathrow in Terminal 5, being on her way to a a holiday a tad more luxurious than the trip we were taking.

Realising that there were 2 Marks in the group it was decided we needed to have different names. Roz decided that I was to be called Mary. Clearly someone has been blabbing about my secret weekend activities.

Getting our tickets from Charity Challenge we booked in for the flight and headed for security but not before Michelle somehow managed to lose her boarding passes and passport in the ten feet between the e-ticket machines and the bag drop. Minor panic over, a mini competition started over who had got their packing right and kept their main kitbag's under 15 kilo's.The answer was none of us but I was closest at 15.2 kilo's.

After navigating security we wanted to get something to eat as none of us were hopeful of the quality of food on the flight. The first challenge of the trip was to do just that as Terminal 2 is a joke for finding something to eat. Caviar bars and a Heston Blumenthal restaurant. What's wrong with a basic cafe or a Burger King? We settled on a sandwich, buying an extra one for the flight to Addis Ababa.

Just as we were about to set off for boarding Dr Doug turned up, the trek doctor. We were fortunate that on this occasion Charity Challenge had secured the services of a doctor to accompany us, and as it turns out Doc had climbed Kili before so knew what to expect, his input and advice was to be crucial as the trip went on.

The food on the flight was actually a really tasty chicken curry, or at least myself and the Doc thought so. After managing to get a couple of hours on/off sleep on the flight the approach to Addis consisted of the most spectacular sunrise and a surprisingly lush countryside. We only ever hear about famine in Ethiopia so this was a pleasant surprise. The sheer size of Addis was a surprise too although why I don't know, it's not as though I had any expectations.

Leaving the plane at Addis we were screened for Ebola even though we were further away from the infection zone than when we had set off from London. Africa is a very big continent after all. Whilst in transit another theme of the trip was to emerge, the ability of Doc to get a few minutes sleep in at very opportunity, we would become very envious. Following a short transit period in Addis we boarded the flight to Kilimanjaro where there was another nice lunch, according to Doc and myself, but tough luck if you were a vegetarian as in the case of Val and Alison.

The mountain was covered in cloud as we arrived so did not get a view of it and because of the cloud the landing was very rough. I did well to hold my lunch down, one of our party was not so lucky. Leaving the flight we had to queue outside in the heat to get into the terminal. We were to be screened again for Ebola and as this involved looking for increased body temperature we kept being reminding to stand in the shade, it was only just about possible.

Feeling relieved that we hadn't caught Ebola in the 4 hours since we were last screened we were met at the airport by the Tanzanian Travel Company. We were introduced to Daniel who was to be our guide to the summit.

We arrived at the hotel 33 hours after I had left home, 35 in Alison's case, where I was pleasantly surprised to be given a room on my own. Mark and Paul were the same age so I presume that is why they were placed together. The Doc needed to be separate in case he was ever required so that left me to myself. This would be a blessing all round as I am so disorganised I would get on a room mates nerves very quickly before we even get started on potential snoring issues. 

After a quick freshen up we met in the bar where Daniel gave us our first briefing. We must eat well, we must take on as much fluid as we can as often as possible 'Sippy Sippy', we must walk slowly 'Pole Pole', get rest in at every opportunity and hygiene around food was vital to avoid stomach upsets. We would be provided with a cup of tea in the morning and some warm water for 'washy washy' before breakfast. Cooked breakfasts, lunch and evening meals would be provided, drinking water at every camp would also be provided. The most important thing though was to concentrate only on that days trek, do not focus on the summit until we get to summit night. 

We lapped up every piece of advice asked questions to get our heads round what was to come. Val and Roz, who had met on a previous trip to Peru, advised that we may as well leave any potential embarrassment behind as within a couple of days the lack of home comforts and consequent drop in cleanliness wouldn't be an issue, and altitude would have effect on our bodies too. The Doc then gave us a briefing about what to expect as we got to high altitudes, that we should start taking Diamox as soon as we were about to start trekking, although we could expect symptoms of excessive peeing, and tingling. The latter came to be known as the Diamox tingles.

Finally Daniel asked about any particular dietary needs, or in reality what things wouldn't we eat. After about fifteen minutes of various things from various members of the group he had almost but not quite lost the will to live. As it turned out he needn't have worried because we were all to eat well although Mark won't mind me saying he was bit more of a challenge for the chef's.

All that was left was to have a meal and a good nights sleep and we were ready to go.

Day 3 - 19th October 2014

After a very good nights sleep we met for a very decent breakfast at 7.30 before meeting Daniel in the lobby. Separating clothes out for our return from the mountain, so that we would have something clean to put on, our kitbag's were weighed to ensure they were below the 15 kilo limit and we made our way onto  the minibus to be taken to the national park.

By this time we were all looking forward to getting going although probably still a little bit nervous about what was to come. Driving to the Marangu Gate to get our permits for entering the park we passed through many villages where the scenes were everything I expected of Africa. Women dressed in bright colours, people carrying heavy loads balanced on their heads, fresh faced and bright eyed children everywhere and lots of people waving at us as we went past. Churches bursting at the seems with people, it was Sunday morning. There were also two lorries that crashed into a ditch that had attracted quite a crowd.

Heading to the Park we got our first 'Wow' moment. Here is a photo I took from the minibus.

Now it was real, no turning back and we couldn't wait.

With the permits secured we drove to our starting point where we were provided with a very nice lunch while the porters went about getting everything packed up to take to the first camp. We were astonished at the amount of kit these guys, and one girl, managed to carry. Our kit bags, our tents, their own kitbags, all the food for the trip. We were expected to carry daysack's weighing up to about 7.5 kilo's. The porters would be carrying 20 kilo's at least and going faster than us.

There were several groups waiting to go taking different routes and schedules up the mountain. Ours appeared to be the longest route giving us plenty of acclimatisation training. We met a very nice Irish couple who were climbing the mountain for their honeymoon. They would be at the first camp we had overnight but after that were on a different route.

With the porters packed and off and running we set off on our first tentative few steps up the mountain.

Very quickly we came to realise that Pole Pole meant very very slowly. Although the path seemed easier than many walks we had done in the UK none of us felt the urge to go faster than the guide was leading us. It was obvious right from the start that none of our group was going to do anything other than take on board every last piece of advice given to us. If the guides had told us to put our left boot on first we would have done it. 

The first trek lasted about 3 hours through rain forest. Passing though a remote village where the locals led a very sparse existence and a small group of children were waiting by the trail to ask for chocolate, we didn't have any. The villagers had set up a little stall selling drinks to the porters and some of the guides and porters where waiting for us there and burst in to song. We passed on through using the gentle start as more time to get to know each other better. Talking to Val about the sparse existence she remarked that in some ways they probably led a more carefree existence than us and I couldn't disagree as everybody looks happy.

On the way to camp some of the guides introduced themselves, Ben, Farouk and Lassara where to be our main guides. 'Small Daniel' also introduced himself. He was Daniel's brother and his real name was Felix. We were to learn that Felix was the main focal point of the camp, he would wake us up, bring us our tea and our food, and was always laughing and joking. At times for all we know he could have been insulting as as he bellowed at us in Swahili. Even if he was we didn't care because he made is laugh at the same time and he never let anyone's spirit's drop.

We reached the camp at a height of approx. 2600m in good spirits and were shown to our tents. We had gained around 650m in height during the afternoon. We were brought our first washy washy, a very small bowl of warm water and a small piece of soap to last the rest of the trek. When I say a small bowl of water I am talking about enough water to barely wash your hands in.

Milling round the camp and chit chatting to the others I suddenly realised I was standing on an ants nest and dozens of the little biting buggers were making their way up the inside of my clothes. Having managed to fight the buggers off I tucked my trousers into my socks to stop a repeat invasion. However, during the evening meal I did feel one of the remaining survivors getting very close to my gentleman's area and put a stop to it before it was too late. I am feeling a bit itchy just recalling it. Doc was very sympathetic, he thought it as very funny.

Our first camp meal was a spectacularly tasty Zucchini followed by a delicious fried fish with potatoes and spicy vegetables. We were all very impressed. I started as I meant to go on by drinking black tea with my meals. A small sacrifice on my part, being a non tea drinker, but vital as it was to get progressively colder in camp over the coming days.

Daniel gave us our briefing for the next day and the Doc gave us his most important piece of advice so far. If you need to pee in the night don't lie there holding it in as you won't rest, just 'Man Up' and go the loo no matter how cold it is outside.

As it turned out as soon we returned to our tents it started absolutely belting it down. This was followed by thunder and lightning. With the Diamox having the side effect of wanting to make you pee all the time, and the sound of water running down the outside of your tent the dilemma of holding it in or 'manning up' became acute. Fortunately the rain stopped before it was too late so I made a dash for it. This was to be the first of many dashes on the first night. By the end of of the night I couldn't be bothered getting fully dressed and just went for it in my boxer shorts. It was fairly warm so it is not as brave as it sounds. It would have been a sickening sight for one of the ladies of the group though if they had ventured out at the same time.

While the constant peeing did mean a bit of a restless night it also meant  that about 3 a.m. when the rain had stopped completely, and the sky had cleared, I was rewarded with the most spectacular night sky I had ever seen. With little or no light pollution the sky was was filled with bright stars, a site we just don't get in urban Britain.

Apart from that the night was spent to trying to work out how to get comfortable. Although I had purchased a nice warm sleeping bag and a thermarest mattress, it was till a tad uneven underneath so manoeuvring your body around the lumpy bits was vital to get comfy. 

My tent is the one on the right that appears to be levitating. It wasn't!

Next up - trekking to high altitudes, watch this space.

If you have been 'enjoying' reading this blog please consider sponsoring me by visiting  Marks Just Giving Page 

or TEXT code MPTC50 £amount to 70070 e.g. MPTC £5

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For more information about the Princes Trust visit the website at www.princes-trust.org.uk

Mark

So this is it!

October 16th 2014 - 1 Day to go 

There is no more I can do. No more training, no more dieting, no more buying endless pieces of kit, no more stocking up on sweets and snacks, no more crashing my bike. In 28 hours I will be taxiing down the runway at Heathrow with a small group of strangers about to embark on the biggest challenge I have ever, or am ever likely to face in my life. Has the training been enough? I am about to find out.

The last few days have been filled with excitement, trepidation and a bit of panic when I thought I was going to get a cold. I seem to have fended that off, the last thing I needed was breathing difficulties before I even started.

And with perfect timing the the BBC had a news item on their website that was a timely reminder that this is no ordinary trek. See http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-29516211 for the item in question. Everest Base Camp is almost 2000ft lower than our ultimate goal. It is fraught with dangers but I am comforted by the fact that Charity Challenge have a great reputation and high success rate for getting people through these challenges. 

All that was left, the final challenge before leaving, was to pack my kit bag. Piece of cake you would think. However, the main kitbag to be carried by the porters has to be kept below 15 kilo's. As a result there has been a serious amount of culling of clothes, sweets and medicines. I have probably cut the amount of clothing in half, the amount of sweets and snacks by about three quarters and the meds also in half. I am not going to be nice to know by the time I get home, if I ever was in the first place.

Leaving work on Tuesday I was really touched by the messages of support and the hugs, kisses and handshakes to the point where I had a bit of a lump in the throat. Normally I would be only too glad to be receiving hugs and kisses (alright I still was) but it almost felt as  if I was leaving for good.

So this is it! I don't know when I will be able to get a message back to say have I done it or not, it could be after I arrive back in the UK. In the meantime I will leave you with my guilty pleasure - a bit of Miley

"I can almost see it
That dream I am dreaming
But there's a voice inside my head saying
'You'll never reach it'

Every step I'm taking
Every move I make feels
Lost with no direction
My faith is shaking

But I gotta keep trying
Gotta keep my head held high

There's always gonna be another mountain
I'm always gonna wanna make it move
Always gonna be a uphill battle
Sometimes I'm gonna have to lose

Ain't about how fast I get there
Ain't about what's waiting on the other side
It's the climb

The struggles I'm facing
The chances I'm taking
Sometimes might knock me down
But no, I'm not breaking

I may not know it
But these are the moments that
I'm gonna remember most, yeah
Just gotta keep going

And I, I got to be strong
Just keep pushing on

'Cause there's always gonna be another mountain
I'm always gonna wanna make it move
Always gonna be a uphill battle
Sometimes I'm gonna have to lose

Ain't about how fast I get there
Ain't about what's waiting on the other side
It's the climb, yeah!

There's always gonna be another mountain
I'm always gonna wanna make it move
Always gonna be an uphill battle
Somebody's gonna have to lose

Ain't about how fast I get there
Ain't about what's waiting on the other side
It's the climb, yeah!

Keep on moving, keep climbing
Keep the faith, baby
It's all about, it's all about the climb
Keep the faith, keep your faith, whoa"

If you have been 'enjoying' reading this blog please consider sponsoring me by visiting  Marks Just Giving Page 

or TEXT code MPTC50 £amount to 70070 e.g. MPTC £5

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For more information about the Princes Trust visit the website at www.princes-trust.org.uk

Mark